Logan Canyon. This can safely be said
to not be the best place in Utah for iceclimbs. However, many lines
have been scratched upwards by ice-hungry locals. The climb locations
are referenced to mileposts along Highway US89. Directions (i.e. "right" and "left") refer to traveling up-canyon.
- Five Fingers (WI2, 1pitch. Rare). On left, mile 374.65.
This and the next three climbs derive water from the diversion
canal along the canyon side.
- Weeping Wall (WI3, 1/2 pitch). On left above power-plant,
- Power Alley (WI2, 1/4 pitch). Brushy cleft on left,
- Frigid When Wet (WI2-3, 1/4 pitch). On left, mile 374.25.
- Roadside Attraction (WI3, 20 feet). Pillar on left side of the road
at mile 375.45.
- Skatie's Tears (WI4, 1/4 pitch). Pillar/curtain on
left, mile 380.5.
- Co-dependent Chicks (*, WI3-4, 2 pitches). On right,
across river from "Card Picnic Area", mile 381.4. For this
and the next two climbs, it might be easier to cross the
river at the bridge 1/4 mile upriver.
- Snowboard Chicks Dig Skiers (*, M4, 1/2 pitch).
On right, across river, mile 381.45.
- How Do You Like Them Apples (WI2, 1/2 pitch). On right,
across river, mile 381.5.
- China Cat Sunflower (WI4, 1 pitch). On left, mile 383.5.
It's the ice-covered version of "The Alcove" rock-climb.
- Drinking on Borrowed Time (WI3, 1 pitch). On left,
mile 383.55. Very near the "Gully Washer" rock-climb.
- Last Chance Falls (*, WI3, 1 pitch).
This is the most reliably forming ice in the Logan area.
Drive and/or hike 0.8 mile up the Right Hand Fork, then 0.25
mile uphill to the right across the creek.
- Slippery When Wet (WI2, 1 pitch). On right, across
river, mile 386.1.
Blacksmith Fork Canyon.
- Urban Haze (WI2, 250m solo). An erosion gash on the south-side of the canyon at about mile-post 8 provides a series of frozen steps to climb between rubble crossings. Third class the last section, and descend the coyote trails through the trees to the left of the gash.
Cutler Dam. This is private property:
- Dam Falls (WI3, 1/2 pitch). The frozen spillways.
- Sideflow (WI4, 1/2 pitch). The frozen drain-water
near the bridge to the power-plant.
Willard Area. There are a few canyons with water-ice east of Willard Bay.
- Willard Canyon (WI2. 2-3 pitches). Hike up Willard Canyon
past the gravel pit along a jeep-road. The gravel pit is gained by turning off of US89 at about 150 N in Willard (there's a sign for H&K Sand and Gravel, and it's where the "Original Willard Cemetary" is located), and driving up about 1/2 mile (take the right fork after 1/4 mile); The jeep-road is visible across the creek. There's a cleft/gash in the canyon wall to the right
near where the creek turns from flowing south to flowing west.
- Holmea Canyon (unknown name and rating).
A couple of flows are up this
canyon which falls from the left of the prominent multi-pitch rock prow high above on the Ben Lomond massif. The Canyon entrance is easily reached by going cross-country from the east end of 300 South in Willard. Private property must be crossed first, so tread lightly.
- Pearsons Canyon. (unknown name and rating).
A couple of flows are up this
canyon which falls from the right of the prominent multi-pitch rock prow on the Ben Lomond massif. The Canyon entrance can be approached from US89 at about 1100 South in Willard. Private property must be crossed first, so tread lightly.
- Ogden Canyon.
Directions: From Ogden head East on 12th street (towards Powder Mtn and Snowbasin ski areas). (ratings vary across this wide formation.
Near the mouth of the canyon is a water-pipe that spans
the Ogden River overhead. On the North side, overflow from
the water pipe can freeze into a beautiful falls. However, the pipe leakage has been halted (Winter 98), and there is no longer any icefall.
- Malan's Peak Waterfall (WI5, 4pitches).
On the South flank of Malan's Peak (aka Mahlen's Peak) is a hidden, quality climb.
Directions: drive east to the end of 32nd street in Ogden and park, cross the golf course, then hike for about a mile up Waterfall Canyon (directly East from the parkinglot). (It is also possible to get to the Canyon from the end of 29th Street along a jeep road that skirts the golf course). The frozen falls won't be visible until you're almost upon them. The falls face south, so this climb should be done as early as possible to avoid falling ice. The first pitch may be all that is climbable, but is itself worth the hike.
- School Rock (WI3, 2-3 pitches).
At the east end of 26th street is a large cliff band where ice
- Fireman's Notch (WI2, 1pitch).
From the north end of Polk Ave. off of 3rd St hike to the bed of the shallow canyon on the east. There
is a cave on the south side of the canyon.
- Great Amphitheater Gully (WI3-, 5pitches, 200m). Located in an obvious wide gully in the quartzite cliffs above 3rd Street in Ogden. Park on the east end of 3rd St or Douglas. Hike east into the obvious gully. A fine gully classic. Difficult to determine conditions from the roadwithout binoculars. One hour approach. Consistently moderate angle onusually thin ice for 5 pitches to the rim. More rock gear than screwsfor pro. To descend rappel the gully The old fixed rappel pins are dangerous. The route is unpredictable and usuallyforms when a warm melt period is followed by 2-3 days of very frigidtemperatures.
Big Cottonwood Canyon.
Little Cottonwood Canyon. Directions: From Sandy (SE Salt Lake City), go East on Hwy 210 (towards Alta and Snowbird ski areas).
- Aqueducts. Private property where
climbing is not allowed.
- Storm Mountain (WI?, 3 pitches). On the north
canyon-side at the "Storm Mountain" picnic area a few
miles up canyon.
- Scottish Gully 100m WI3? M5?
It can be found just west of the climb Outside Corner. Go about 2.6 miles up the canyon.
- B-Pitch (WI4).
Go to the Bumble Bee Wall. This wall is to the northwest of the baseball diamond found at the Storm Mountain Picnic area. This is a three step climb. Steep ice with some mixed climbing.
- Scruffy Band (*, WI3-4, 2 pitches). The first big section of granite on the right (South) as you enter the canyon (about one-third of a mile past intersection of Highways 209 and 210.
- Super Slab (*, WI4, 4 pitches). Rarely forms. Just up-canyon from the Scruffy Band.
- Cold Duck (WI?, 1pitch?). On the north side, 1.1 miles upcanyon from the intersection of Highways 209 and 210. It's the ice-covered version of the "Disco Duck" rock-climb.
- Great White Icicle (**, WI3, 4-5 pitches). On the south canyon-side a couple of miles up-canyon from the intersection of Highways 209 and 210. Best approached by crossing the creek at the power-plant then walking downstream for a couple of hundred feet, and then head into the woods along a trail.
American Fork Canyon. Along the flanks of Mt. Timpanogos can be found some flows. At least one climb con be found down-canyon from Timpanogos Cave. There are ice-climbs above Aspen Grove high on Mt. Timpanogos.
- Grunge Couloir (WI2, 300m).
Often more snow than ice. Head up American Fork Canyon to Temponeke campground on the east slope of Timpanogos. Hike up to the obvious split gully. Grunge is the right hand gully.
- Timpanogos Falls (WI3?).
From Aspen Grove, hike up towards Emerald lake.
There is often an obvious trail through winter.
Be aware that this climb in known to have a hollow-ice finish:
The water hollows out a large chamber beneath the snow that you can't see.
- Timp Couloir 200m? III WI3? The obvious couloir on your right as you do the approach up to the lake. During the spring this will constantly have avalanches running down it, but is good autumn climb since it forms early.
- Hidden Lakes (WI4+, 100m).
The following climbs are the earliest to form and the last to melt along the Wasatch. Continue up past the falls to the point where you start to dip down towards the lake. Turn around and look to the west. You should be able to see the climbs. They start off easy and gets progressively steeper. Probably you'll want snowshoes or skis to do this approach. There is a very high avalanche danger on the approach.
- Moist and Juicy IV.
- Shower Curtain IV.
Provo Canyon. Directions: take the 8th North exit (#275) in Orem and continue east on Hwy52 to merge onto Hwy 189. Bridal Veil Falls is one of the main points of reference for Provo Canyon, and is just a few miles up from the mouth of the canyon. There is a convenient creekside parkinglot from which all of the climbs can be approached. The climbs are listed in a roughly West to East order. It is easiest to park at the tramway/picnic-area to access most of the climbs.
- The Smear of Fear (WI?, ? pitches). East-facing climb low in the canyon.
- Stairway to Heaven (***, WI4-5, 7 pitches). Just downcanyon (a few hundred meters) from Bridal Veil Falls, the ice flows over steps of limestone. The last steps are the hardest. The descent entails traversing towards the Upper Bridal Veil Falls, descending an icy gully, and crossing the Falls above the Lower section to descend on a trail. If only the first few pitches are done, it is possible to rappel and/or walk-off to the right.
- Prophet on a Stick (WI5+, 1 pitch variation). Forms rarely. Located 75 feet right of the fourth pitch of Stairway to Heaven.
- Bridal Veil Falls (BVF). The main flow of the Falls doesn't completely freeze, but other ice-flows form to create the climbs. The Falls descends over two distinct tiers; There are several possibilities for ascending the lower tier which is located within a shallow cirque:
- White Nightmare (WI5, 2 pitches, 100m). This climb ascends the far right side of the cirque (about 100m from the main flow of the Falls).
- Bridal Veil Falls Right (WI3, 1 pitches). This line is just right of the main flow of the Falls.
- Unknown name (WI4, 1 pitches). This line ascends between White Nightmare and BVF Right.
- BVF Leftside (WI3, 1/2 pitches). To the left of the main flow of the Falls is a curtain.
- Five new mixed lines in the upper Bridalveil area ranging from M9 to M6 were added by
Robbie Colbert (99/00) by diverting the main flow of Bridalveil over the cliff to the west
of the main waterfall.
- The Fang (WI5, 2 pitches, 120m). This and the next few climbs (listed from left to right) are most easily approached from the Upper Falls parking-lot about a 1/2 mile up-canyon from Bridal Veil Falls parking. An easy (WI4) gully leads to a 15m column. Descend by hiking down the slopes on the left or rappelling. Be aware of avalanche danger.
- Miller's Thriller (WI4, ? pitches, 150m).About 50m east of Post Nasal Drip. A gully with a short 10m curtain as the crux.
- Post Nasal Drip (WI5, 3-4 pitches, 120m). Forms between Miller's Thriller and Finger of Fate (about 100m east of Finger of Fate). A moderate tunnel followed by a 20m column and a 25m column.Descend by traversing to the east and rappelling down.Variation: Snotty Nosed Brat 120m II WI5+When it hasn't yet touched down (Generally earlier on in the season).
- Finger of Fate (WI4+, 3 pitches, 150m). Located in a gully just up-canyon (1/2 mile) from Bridal Veil Falls.A long 40m pitch that is the crux followed by two easier pitches.
- Soft and Juicy (WI?, ? pitches).This and the next two climbs are located on the north canyon-side opposite Bridal Veil Falls.
- Warm and Moist (WI?, ? pitches).
- Shower Tower (WI?, ? pitches).
- Stewart Falls, or Cascades (***WI5+, 1pitch). Located near the Sundance ski area on the flank of Mt. Timpanogos. There are two approaches with the best being to go to Aspen Grove and take the Stewart Falls trail. You might need a Sundance nordic ski pass when you reach the private property. The other approach (which is shorter, but involves accessing a private housing community), is to drive through the Sundance area until you reach the far west side. From a pullout here, jump the chain link fence and hike to the falls. This cuts your approach considerably. Avalanche hazard can be extreme here.
Indian Canyon. This canyon on the south side of the city of Duchesne has rumoured ice!Please write me if you can confirm it.
Flaming Gorge. There are rumours of much ice in Flaming Gorge. Please write me if you can confirm it.
Soldier Summit. Many short pillars can form along Hwy 6 between Spanish Fork and Helper. Below are listed the most reliably forming.
- Dirtsicle (WI4, 1/2 pitch). In a small alcove on the uphill side of Hwy 6 just south of Kvune Pass Road in Price Canyon can be found a fat ice-flow.
- Diamond Fork (WI?, 1/2 pitch). There is ice along the Diamond Fork Canyon Road which travels northward from Hwy 6/89from a junction west of where Hwy 89 splits from 6. At least one flow forms reliably.
Santaquin Canyon. Directions: take exit 248 from Interstate 15, then head south along the east frontage road to Santaquin Canyon road. Drive and hike up-canyon. The climbs form on the south canyon-side, are listed in lower to upper canyon order. It is probable that you'll see the upper part of Angel of Fear during the approach.
- The Candlestick (WI5, ? pitches).
- Automatic Control Theory (**, WI5, 1 long pitch). Steep and unrelenting. Rap from trees.
- Angel of Fear (**, WI6+, 3 pitches). One of the harderice-climbs in the US, and rare to form. Rappel route to descend.
- Squashhead Nose (*, WI4+, 2 pitches). This two pitch gully climb is near the road, and begins with a 30 foot pillar/curtain. It is possible to rappell the route itself (with a bollard, or V-thread for the last rappell), but most continue up and left to the ridgetop to rappell eastwards into the next gully which holds the following climb.
- Back Off (**, WI4+-5-, 1 pitch)Approach from below, or from the top of Squashhead by rappelling east from the ridgetop near the end of the second pitch. Unless snow is covering the lower angle start, this can be a 200 foot ribbon. Rappel from trees just left of the route to descend, and continue down the gully towards the road. A great 40 foot curtain can be found by skirting the cliff back towards the beginning of Squashhead.
- Martini - 10 bolt start to Squash Head. Most likely M9- maybe M9, but it seems like
12c/d in the rock scale.
- Swollen Cheek - 6 bolts - forms between Candlestick and Automatic. It's the first line
to come in and offers excellent mixed climbing to sporty ice in early season or after
things have fallen down (it's always early season in Utah). Most likely M7+ or M8- feels
like 5.11D to some good ice climbing - Grade V+ or VI depending on the day. The second
hanging pillar is good value as well.
- Direct Finish to Lucifer - a small cave between BackOff and Squash Head. 6 bolts - very
steep dry tooling. Most likely M9 - 12d or 13a - if you go straight up fortunately there's
only ice at the lip of the cave - there or no other traversing options. This is a pretty
good line now that it goes straight out the cave.
North Creek Canyon.Directions: take exit 236 from Interstate 15, head west into the village of Mona; In Mona, head north for about a mile, then turn east on a road that
will take you back under I15 and up through a gravel quarry. Drive as far as you can into the canyon, then start walking on a decent trail. The climb is on the southern side of the canyon about a mile from the canyon's mouth.
- Frozen Assets (WI4?, 8 pitches). This north-facing climb can be seen from I15 as a ribbon of ice up a canyon with rust/red rock at its mouth. The lower pitches can be anemic (i.e. thin, brittle ice); It forms rarely.
Maple Canyon.Directions: From I15 in Nephi, take exite 225 east onto Hwy 132 to Fountain Green (which is about ten miles East of Nephi on Hwy 132). Follow the small signs to "Maple Canyon" south for about four miles past turkey and cow barns to Maple Canyon. The road in not plowed , so it may be necessary to walk into the canyon for a mile, or two. There are dozens of great ice-climbs here. A list is forthcoming.
Directions: From Orangeville, go West on
Hwy 29 into Joe's Valley. Most of the dozen ice-climbs in this area occur in gullies and alcoves before the reservoir spillway; CCC Falls and Donorsicle(aka 44 Magnum) are the exceptions.
- Straight Canyon Climbs. Cottonwood Creek drains from Joe's Resevoir through Straight Canyon. The following climbs are located in drainages along this Canyon.
- Highway to Heaven (aka Deadbolt) (*, WI4, 2-3 roped pitches, long gully). Cross the main creek, and head up the obvious gully on the left near the beginning of the canyon. The gully is called Cox Swale on most maps. Follow the streambed up some steps and notches to a 20m curtain headwall. Continue up easy WI2 steps several hundred meters until you reach a 12m column. Continue up fairly easy climbing.
- Stairway to Hemorrhoids (aka Masterlock)(WI2, long brushy gully).
Start the first part of Highway to Heaven. Take the easy climb up the gully to the left of the 20m curtain headwall.
- Silent White (aka Spear of Fear) (*, WI5, 65m).
Stop at mile marker 6.2. Follow the streambed up the obvious canyon on your right. About 1km up there is a 15m curtain. This is followed by 20m of a relatively easy corner and then a 8m cauliflower cone. The final 20m column is the crux. Rappel from the trees.
- Surprise Party (aka Slidin' Away) (*, WI4+, 65m). Head up the same canyon as Silent White. There are two obvious climbs high up on the eastern wall. This is the left one, and is most easily approached by traversing from the rightmost climb). Rappel from trees to descend.
- PreMadonna (**, WI5, 2 pitches). This is the rightmost climb high on the Eastern wallApproach by slogging up the hill from the creekside pullout.
- Bush Diver (aka Brontosaurus) (WI3-, 45m). It is just up a little ways from the turnoff to Silent White and Surprise Party but is on the left hand side between the road and the river.
- The Practice Gully (WI3-, 45m). It is just prior to The Ampitheatre on the left below the road. They appear to consist of gentle ice with a few steep sections.
- The Amphitheatre (aka The Beehive) (WI6, 3 pitches).
This is the obvious shallow amphitheatre with the sick pillars dripping in succession over the overhangs to the right of the road. The climb progresses up three tiers. The third tier might be a a hanging dagger. Rappel to descend.
- Donorsicle (aka 44 Magnum) (WI5-, 40m). Located low in a drainage immediately NNE of the lakeside Luke's Trail Mountain Lodge.Hike (20 min), or drive a dirt-road along a fence-line to the base. It can form with no cone, and be dead vertical for 40m. Descend by rappel from bolts on a boulder, or hike up the steambed to descend by the southern slopes.
- CCC Falls (WI4, 2 pitches). Located just above the CCC trailhead which is roadside to the South of Luke's Trail Mountain Lodge. It climbs 30m over steep bulges (I2+) to a streambed icerink which leads to a 12m crux curtain finish. Descend via the CCC trail on the southern slope.
- Melty Way (aka Wolfenstein) (WI4+, 100m). Often wet and melted out but very fun. There are actually two (and sometimes more) climbs here: the easiest is 4+. Located at about mile (mile-marker) 4.2 on the cliffs directly abovethe road and near the resevoir dam. Rappel from trees or hardware.
- Mary's LakeGo to the west of thereservoir and then ski or snowmobile along the North Dragon Creekin the canyon south of Joe's Reservoir. There is presumably a lake (though not marked on most maps) behind which is located a cliff-band.
- Left Band (WI5, 30m).
- Center (WI5, 30m).
- Right Band (WI4, 30m).
- Josephite Point. Go up North Dragon Creek to Mary's Lake. North of Mary's Lake is a canyon containing several climbs draping the dirt walls. The approach is difficult. The names come from the fact that thefirst ascensionist's dog ate his snowmobile seat during the trip.The western wall is called The Wall of Good and the easternwall is called The Wall of Evil.
- Screw the Dog (WI3, 200m). A thin face of dirty ice left of the main gully on the westermost wall.
- Kill the Dog (WI3, 200m). About 15m to the right of Screw the Dog is a wide smear of nicer ice.
- The Incredible Hulk (WI3-, 300m). Similar to Great White Icicle. The upper and lower sections are low angled and frequently covered in snow.
- Skin the Dog (WI3, 150m). A narrow but steep gully that leads up to some trees you can rappel from.
- Spiral Shit Smear (WI3+, 200m). This is on the larger dirt cliff, The Wall of Evil. Most of the climbing is very easy and averages 40 degrees. follow the line up the breach through the cliff. The upper portion is very steep, but the bottom section usually is covered with snow.
- The Northern Lite (WI2+, 450m). This averages around 30 degrees and is covered with a considerable amount of snow. There is high avalanche danger on the climb.
Huntington CreekOn UT31 west of the town of Huntington.
- The mine climbs. 15 miles up SR-31 past Huntington on your right.
Above the baseball diamond at the co-op mine are
several short (1 pitch, or less) ice-climbs. They're all fun. Permission from
the mine superintendent is good to have.
- Huntington Wall (WI3+?, 20m). Continue up Huntington Canyon past the Bear Creek Canyon turnoff. You should go around a bend and on the right there is an ice wall about 200m above the road. Unfortunately this is often very thin and may not form in dry or warm years.
- Boogercicle (WI4+-5-, 1 1/2 pitches). On the southwest side
of the canyon (around milepost 94?? I can't remember the exact milepost,
but the ice is visible from the road ) is a great climb on yellow ice.
It's about a 1/4 mile off the road across the river.
Tushar MtnsThe Cascade Falls forms up early in the season, but Bullion Falls requires very low temperatures due to its high flow rate. Access this area by driving west from Marysvale on Center Street to Bullion Canyon Road and into Bullion Canyon. This is a former gold mining area, and you'll pass miner's cabins and ghost towns enroute. Continue until stopped by snow, then hike/ski/machine-ride to the new bridge (formerly collapsed) at "Bullion City."
- Cascade Falls (WI3+, 1-3 pitches). Cascade Falls is reached by continuing over the bridge past "Webster City" and "Miner's Park" to the second road switchback; Follow the nearby creek to the ice. The Falls can be seen in the distance from the trail to Bullion Falls.
- Bullion Falls (WI4, 1pitches). From the new bridge, take the trail to the right to the Bullion Falls View from which the ice can be accessed.
- Moqui Slide (WI2+-4, 1pitch). On US89 milepost 70 across and downstream from the "Moqui Cave." This can be fat and easy, or thin and terrifying.
- Moqui Holdout (WI3+, 1/2 pitch). This is in the small box canyon directly across US89 from the "Moqui Cave."
Zion National Park Many low angle flows form from water seeps in the Park. The surrounding scenery creates a unique iceclimbing experience.
Cedar City environs. There is ice in southern Utah.
Contribute information if you know where and what.