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Iceclimb
Intermountain Region Map

Nevada:

  • Red Rocks State Park. Ice does form in Oak Creek Canyon way up high. Be prepared for long approaches. It seems likely that other flows exist within the Park too.
  • Mount Charleston. Take US95 north from Las Vegas to either Hwy 157/39 or 156.
    • Lee Canyon
      • Las Vegas Hosemonster (WI5, many pitches). This iceclimb has a rock counterpart that goes at 5.12; That should give an indication of the steepness. Be forewarned that the smoothness of the underlying rockface allows the ice to fail catastrophically.
      • Mary Jane Falls
      • Big Falls
      • Little Falls
      • Kyle Canyon. Ice possibly can be found in this canyon.
  • Lamoille Canyon is located in the Ruby Mountains near Elko (and just above the small town of Lamoille). Several flows over cliffs and through gullies form. The Canyon road is typically closed at the Glacier Turnout during winter due to snow. More possibilities exist for climbing than are listed here.
    • Boy Scout (WI3, 1 pitch). This climb is above the Glacier turnout on the North side of the canyon, and is easily visible from the road. Approach time is about 1/4 hour. Rappell, or walk off.
    • Un-named (WI2, 1 pitch). This and the next climb are up-canyon a couple of miles from Boy Scout. Approach time is about 3/4 to 1 hour.
    • Un-named (WI2, 1 pitch).
    • Sunshine (WI3, 2 pitches). This climb is visible looking down-canyon to the right (east) from the Glacier Turnout. As evidenced by its name, it's got a southwest exposure, and doesn't form consistently. Approach time is about 1 hour from the Glacier Turnout.
  • Wheeler Peak. Within the Great Basin National Park can be found this peak which features a fearsome Northeast face. The following climbs thread up the spiderweb of steep gullies on this face, and are accessed via the trail to the Wheeler glacier.
    • Northwest Passage (AI2, 400m). This is the main couloir that starts from the glacier and goes to the ridge between Jeff Davis Peak and the "Nameless Tower" peak.
    • Main Pleiades Couloir (AI2, 400m). This is the large couloir that leads to the notch between Wheeler and its east-shoulder satellite. Take off to the right of the main couloir where the obvious rock fall path stains the snow. Head straight up the couloir and chimney to the ridge.
    • Lost Pleiad (WI3, 460m). An early season variation of the Main Pleiades Couloir. Take the gully to the right of the Main Pleiades to reach the top of Wandering Aengus.
    • Wandering Aengus (WI4, 400m). Climb the ice up the small shoot to the right of the main couloir just prior to the start of the Main Pleiades.
    • Stella by Starlight (5.8, A3, WI4, V). Ascends the right side of the Northeast face to gain a ramp that traverses left to a point left of the main summit.
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