Ten Mile Canyon
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
Several climbs from WI2-5 can be found on the south side of I70
just past the Officer's Gulch turnoff (exit 198).
- The Shroud (WI4+ 1/2 pitch).
- Tony's Nightmare (WI4+, 2pitch).
- gully (WI2, 3pitches).
- curtain (WI5, 1/2 pitch).
- Round the corner (WI5, 2pitches).
- 3 Tiers (WI2, 3pitches).
Vail.
- Rocktype: limestone
- Base Elevation: 8500'
- Water Source: flow and freeze/thaw
The following climbs are south of I-70 (and visible
from the freeway), up the hillside, and drape over the limestone edge.
The Rigid Designator is ususally the largest formation (a HUGE pillar),
and makes for a convenient point of reference.
To reach Vail's ice, take the East Vail exit off I-70 and
follow the frontage road north of I-70 west for several
miles until it passes under I-70 and begins to run parallel
to the golf course. For the Designator/Fang area,
take the first street to the left (after passing under I-70 on
the frontage road), which is Aspen Lane.
At the south end of the cul-de-sac there's a climber's trail
that leads between the houses, across a bridge over Gore Creek
and up the hill toward the ice.
For the the 19th Hole, continue west along the
frontage road from Aspen Lane. After about a mile, look for a pull-out on
the south side (which includes parking for restrooms and the golf course
pump house). A small trail leads up the mountain to the base of the
falls.
The climbs are listed in
a left-to-right order.
- Spiral Staircase (WI3-4, 2 pitches). 300' left
of the Rigid Designator.
- Misery (M8+, 1 pitch).
This is a very steep climb which resembles more of a roof (overhangs 40 feet in
40 feet).
Four bolts and two pins take you through some interesting technical climbing
to a challenging crux. The route is in the Bellfry area of the
upper Sprial Staircase.
- Svengali (M9+, 1 pitch).
In the bellfry area of the upper Spiral Staircase just left of the Pencil.
Follow a thirty-five degree roof to a short smear of ice.
- Secret Probation (WI5, M7, 1 pitch).
Right of Sprial Staircase.
- Dr. Delicate (WI5, M6+, 2 pitches).
- After Eight (WI6, M7, 2 pitches).
- Teriebel Traverse (W5-I6, M7, 1 pitch).
- Aberrant Behavior (WI6, M7, 1 pitch).
- Rigid Designator (WI4-5, 1 pitch).
- Resurrection (WI6, M8, 1 pitch).
- The Seventh Tentacle (WI6, M6-7, 1 pitch).
- Frigid Inseminator (WI5, M6, 1 pitch). akaThang.
- Octopussy (WI6, M8, 1 pitch).
An extension of the Seventh Tentacle/Frigid Inseminator.
- Reptile (M9-10?, 1 pitch).
An extension of the Seventh Tentacle/Frigid Inseminator.
- The Fang (WI5-6+)
- Amphibian (WI5-6, M9-9+, 1 pitch).
- Fatman and Robin (WI5, M9, 1 pitch).
- The Firehouse. This actually refers to an area of
climbs above the Vail fire station (about a mile east of Rigid Designator).
- many routes of WI3-5 and the testpiece below.
- Silver Tongued Devil (M7).
- The Pumphouse (WI3-4, 1 pitch)
akaThe 19th Hole. This climb is in the gully above the pump house on the
Vail golf course, and is about a mile west of the Designator et al climbs.
Approach from a parking lot near the pumphouse
off the south frontage road in east Vail.
- Raquetclub Falls. There is some easy to moderate ice above
the tennis courts on Meadow Drive abot 1.5 miles east of the
Designator et al climbs.
Booth Creek.
- Rocktype: limestone
- Base Elevation: 8500'?
- Water Source: flow and freeze/thaw
Glenwood Canyon.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
(by Glenwood Springs, 25 miles West of Vail)
- Glenwood Falls (WI3-5, 4 pitches). A series of stepped ice cascades directly
above the Hanging Lake exit (121) off I-70.
- Deep Throat (M7 WI7 5.8 R, 3 pitches).
This testpiece begins 200 feet up and left of Glenwood Falls.
- Hidden Falls (WI4-5, 3 pitches). Approach from exit 121 off I-70.
- Mystery Falls (WI5, 1 pitch).
Redstone (Crystal River Valley).
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- Drool. two 60-foot columns spilling over cliffs in sequence.
- Hidden Falls
- Redstone Pillar. Located behind Redstone Castle.
- Avocado Gully. In the narrow, white cliffs just south of
Avalanche Creek,
- Marble Falls ( aka Milton Creek Falls the
waterfall on all Coors label)
Parachute Creek.
- Rocktype: sedimentary funkness
- Base Elevation: 6900'
- Water Source: flow and freeze/thaw
A number of climbs have been done up this drainage.
Rifle Mountain Park.
- Rocktype: sedimentary funkness
- Base Elevation: 6900'
- Water Source: flow and freeze/thaw
There are alot of ice- and mixed climbs in this summer-time sport-climb mecca.
Take route 13 north out of Rifle, then right onto route 325. The Park itself
requires a day-use fee.
Clear Creek Canyon, Denver.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- "little drips" freeze to create a great practice area.
Boulder.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- There are several climbs within
Boulder Canyon near Castle Rock. Some "ice-farmed" climbs are also being done. More info forthcoming.
Wolf Creek
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
(SW Colorado/San Juans)
Durango.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- Freed Canyon
- Haflin Creek
Ouray.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- Ouray Ice Park
- Camp Bird Mine Road
- Red Mountain Pass
- Box Canyon
Purgatory.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
Silverton.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- Eureka (East of Silverton)
The highest concentration of 1000 foot water falls in Colorado.
- South Mineral Creek.
Telluride Area.
- Rocktype:
- Base Elevation:
- Water Source:
- Ames Ice Hose (WI5),
- Bridalveil Falls (WI6)
- Ingram Falls
- Cornet Falls (WI5, 1 pitch)
- Bear Creek Gorge (WI4-5), 1/2 pitch)
- Upper Bear Creek (WI3-4, 1 pitch)
- Royer's Area